Permit Questions to Ask Before Work Starts

Your contractor says they’re ready to start next week. The dumpster is ordered. The crew is scheduled. And then someone mentions permits.

Suddenly you’re wondering: who’s supposed to handle that? How long does it take? What happens if you just start working without one?

Here’s the short version: building permits exist to make sure the work on your home is safe, structurally sound, and up to code. They’re not a suggestion — they’re a legal requirement for most types of construction work. And the time to ask questions about them is before you sign the contract, not after the crew is standing in your driveway.

Let me walk you through every permit question you should ask — and the answers you need to hear.

What projects actually need a permit?

Not every home improvement project requires a permit. Painting a room? No. Replacing cabinet hardware? No. Installing a new water heater? Almost certainly yes.

The general rule: if the work affects the structure, electrical, plumbing, or mechanical systems of your home, you probably need a permit. Here’s what typically triggers one:

Structural work. Adding or removing walls, changing window or door openings, building an addition, finishing a basement — anything that changes the structure of the building.

Electrical work. Adding new circuits, upgrading the panel, running new wiring. Replacing an outlet or light fixture usually doesn’t require a permit, but anything that goes behind a wall or into the panel likely does.

Plumbing work. Moving drains or supply lines, adding fixtures, replacing a water heater. Swapping a faucet or toilet typically doesn’t need a permit, but anything that changes the plumbing layout does.

HVAC work. Installing or replacing a furnace, air conditioner, or ductwork. Replacing an existing unit with an identical one may not require a permit in some jurisdictions, but it depends on your local rules.

Major exterior work. Decks, porches, sheds over a certain size, fences over a certain height, retaining walls, and roofing (in some cases) all require permits.

Demolition. Gutting a room or tearing down a structure requires a permit in most places.

The specifics vary by city and county — sometimes dramatically. A deck that requires a permit in one town might be exempt in the next one over. Always check with your local building department, not your contractor’s word, about what needs a permit.

Who should pull the permit — you or the contractor?

This is the most important permit question you’ll answer, and the answer is almost always: the contractor.

Here’s why. When a contractor pulls a permit, they’re putting their license and reputation on the line. They’re certifying to the building department that the work will be done correctly and to code. If something goes wrong — an inspection fails, work needs to be redone — the contractor is responsible for making it right.

When you pull the permit as the homeowner, you’re taking on that responsibility yourself. You’re telling the building department “I’m acting as my own contractor.” That means if something goes wrong, you own it. The contractor can walk away, and you’re left holding the bag.

There are legitimate situations where a homeowner pulls their own permit. Some states allow homeowners to act as their own contractor for their primary residence. But unless you have construction experience and are prepared to manage the entire project, let the contractor pull the permit.

The question to ask: “Will you pull all the required permits for this project, and are those permit costs included in your bid?”

If the contractor says “You can pull the permit yourself, it’s easy” — that’s a red flag. A licensed contractor should be willing and able to pull permits for the work they’re doing. If they’re not, ask yourself why.

How much do permits cost?

Permit fees vary wildly depending on where you live and what you’re doing. A simple water heater replacement might cost $50 to permit. A major kitchen remodel could run $500 to $2,000. A full home addition might be $3,000 to $10,000 or more.

Fees are usually calculated based on the project’s valuation — the estimated cost of the work. Some jurisdictions charge a flat fee per permit type. Others charge a percentage of the project value. Some charge for plan review separately from inspection fees.

The question to ask: “Can you give me an estimate of the permit fees for this project, and will they be itemized in your bid?”

You want the permit fees listed as a separate line item in the contract, not buried in the total. That way you know exactly what the permit costs and there’s no confusion if a supplemental permit is needed later.

How long does the permit process take?

This is the question that trips up most project timelines.

Permit review times vary enormously. A simple permit for a like-for-like water heater replacement might be issued same-day or within a week. A complex permit involving structural changes, additions, or new construction could take 4 to 12 weeks — sometimes longer.

In Denver, as of 2026, large residential projects are seeing approval times averaging 180 days. In smaller jurisdictions, you might get a permit in a week if your plans are complete. The national average for a single-family home from permit issuance to completion is about 7.4 months.

The question to ask: “What’s the typical permit timeline for this type of project in our jurisdiction, and how does that affect your start date?”

A good contractor will know the local permit office’s workload. They’ll factor permit wait times into their project schedule. A contractor who says “don’t worry about permits, we’ll start right away” is either planning to work without permits or hasn’t thought through the timeline.

What documents are needed for the permit application?

The building department needs to review your plans before they issue a permit. What they need depends on the scope of work.

For a simple project, you might just need a basic application form and a sketch of the work. For a complex project, you’ll need engineered drawings, site plans, energy compliance forms, and possibly structural calculations prepared by a licensed architect or engineer.

The question to ask: “What drawings or documents will you need to prepare for the permit application, and does your bid include the cost of preparing them?”

Some contractors include permit drawings in their bid. Others expect you to hire an architect or designer separately. Know which one you’re getting before you compare bids.

What inspections will be required?

A permit isn’t a one-and-done deal. It comes with a schedule of inspections that need to happen at specific points during construction. The inspector checks that the work meets code before you can move to the next phase.

Typical inspections include:

Foundation/footing inspection. Before concrete is poured for a foundation or footings, the inspector checks the excavation, reinforcing steel, and forms.

Framing inspection. After the structural frame is up but before insulation and drywall, the inspector checks that everything is properly built and meets code.

Rough-in inspection. Before walls are closed, the inspector checks the electrical, plumbing, and mechanical rough-ins.

Insulation inspection. Before drywall goes up, the inspector checks that insulation is properly installed.

Final inspection. After all work is complete, the inspector does a final check and signs off on the permit.

The question to ask: “Who is responsible for scheduling inspections, and how will I be notified when they happen?”

The contractor should handle scheduling — they know what inspections are needed and when. But you should get notified when inspections happen so you can be present if you want. Homeowners have the right to attend inspections.

What happens if work fails an inspection?

Inspections fail all the time. It’s not the end of the world. The inspector issues a correction notice listing what needs to be fixed, the contractor makes the repairs, and the inspector comes back for a re-inspection.

The problem comes when inspections fail repeatedly, or when the contractor tries to avoid inspections altogether.

The question to ask: “What’s your process for handling inspection failures, and who covers the cost of re-inspections?”

Most contractors cover the cost of re-inspections as part of their overhead. But if your contract says you’re responsible for re-inspection fees, that’s a red flag — it means the contractor expects failures and wants to pass the cost to you.

What happens if work was done without a permit?

This happens more often than you’d think. A previous owner finished a basement, added a bathroom, or replaced a roof without pulling permits. Now you own the problem.

If unpermitted work is discovered — during a home sale, a renovation, or an insurance claim — you’ll need to deal with it. The options are:

Retroactive permitting. You apply for a permit after the fact, submit the plans, and have the work inspected. If it meets code, the inspector signs off and you’re good. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to open up walls and fix things.

Legalization. Some jurisdictions have a path to legalize unpermitted work without full compliance with current code. Others require full compliance. It varies.

Disclosure. When you sell your home, you’ll likely need to disclose known unpermitted work. Buyers’ attorneys and lenders often flag this, and it can kill a sale.

The question to ask (if you’re buying): “Has any work on this property been done without permits, and can you provide documentation?”

If you’re renovating and discover unpermitted work from a previous owner, stop work, talk to your contractor about how to handle it, and contact the building department. Ignoring it only makes the problem worse.

What happens if the contractor works without a permit?

This is a hard line. If you’ve agreed that the contractor will pull permits and they start work without them, you have a problem.

Working without a required permit is illegal in most jurisdictions. The building department can issue a stop-work order, fine the contractor (and sometimes the homeowner), and require you to open up completed work for inspection.

If your contractor starts working without permits, stop them. Have the conversation: “I understood you were handling permits. Why wasn’t this pulled before work started?” Then call the building department and ask how to proceed. Don’t let the contractor talk you into “doing it later” or “it’s fine, we know the inspector.”

Quick Answers

Q: Can I get a permit after work has started?

Yes, but it’s not ideal. The building department may require you to expose completed work for inspection — that means opening up walls, removing finishes, or digging up foundations so the inspector can see what’s behind them. The cost of exposing and repairing that work is on you, not the contractor. Always pull permits before work starts.

Q: Does my contractor need to be licensed to pull a permit?

In most jurisdictions, yes. The permit is tied to the contractor’s license. If the contractor isn’t licensed, they can’t pull a permit — and they probably shouldn’t be doing the work in the first place. Some jurisdictions allow homeowners to pull permits for their own property, but that comes with its own risks.

Q: How do I check if a permit was pulled for my project?

Most building departments have an online permit search tool. You’ll need either the permit number or the property address. You can also call the building department and ask. If you’re working with a contractor, ask for the permit number before work starts and confirm it’s been issued.

Q: What’s the difference between a building permit and a zoning permit?

A building permit covers the construction work itself — structural, electrical, plumbing, mechanical. A zoning permit covers whether the work complies with local zoning laws — setbacks, height limits, lot coverage, land use. You may need both. Your contractor or the building department can tell you what permits are required for your specific project.

Q: Do I need a permit for a fence?

Probably, if the fence is over a certain height (typically 6 feet in most jurisdictions). Some areas also require permits for fences in front yards regardless of height. Check with your local building department before you dig post holes.

Q: Do I need a permit for a shed?

Generally yes if the shed is over a certain size — typically 100 to 200 square feet, depending on your jurisdiction. Smaller sheds may be exempt. Even if a permit isn’t required, you may still need to meet setback requirements and property line rules.

Q: Do permits affect my property taxes?

Yes, indirectly. When a permit is issued for work that adds value to your home — an addition, a finished basement, a new deck — the building department typically notifies the tax assessor. Your property taxes may go up to reflect the increased value. This is normal and expected. Factor potential tax increases into your project budget.

Q: What if the contractor says a permit isn’t needed, but I’m not sure?

Get a second opinion. Call your local building department, describe the work, and ask if a permit is required. You can also hire a third-party inspector or a design professional to advise. If the contractor is wrong — or worse, misleading you — you’re the one who pays the price. A quick phone call costs nothing and can save you thousands.